Focus stacking (2) (2)
- You thank your girlfiend or wife or whatever but process the pictures the same day to be sure that all worked out well. For how to process them in Helicon etc. see their help files.
- Don't remember all I wrote? Back to part one
Alternative: if you can live with 14 MP you can also use a Nikon 1 V2: that camera has about three stops more DOF compared to a D800. Often you don't have to make focus stacks, or at least you can do with less exposures. Be sure to overexpose about on stop with this camera and to compensate for that while processing the RAWs.
Again: forget the BS you read about diffraction, you can use f/5.6 with that camera.
- After you made the first picture, you examine it closely (zoomed in to the max) to see where the DOF ends. Remember this point.
- Then you switch Live View back on and focus on a place just before the place where the DOF ends. If you set the central button of the multiselector to zoom in, you might even omit the previous step. Thanks to sharpening you will see later that you have actually a bit more DOF than Live View shows you, but you need some overlap so this is a safety margin.
- Then you just continue and make as many pictures as you need, but at least one picture of every part of the picture you want to have in focus.
- You examin the picture to check whether there are no moving objects (like birds) covering more than one pciture (but even if there are, it's possible you won't see it later) and if necessary you repeat the process.
Picture data: Nikon D800E 1/100s f/8 70-200/2.8 VRII @ 85 mm. (No Focus stack, first picture of stack, see part 1
for result of stack.)
On Nikon camera's, Nikon lenses and more
By Dré de Man, photographer, journalist, and author of 25 books on digital photography and Nikon camera's